How to buy a used car without risk
A guide to buying a used car safely: VIN and history checks, the test drive, an independent mechanic inspection, price negotiation and a proper ownership transfer.
Check the vehicle history before viewing
Start with the VIN (the 17-character chassis number) β ask the seller for it before you even arrange a viewing. Services like carVertical or autoDNA, plus free importer databases, reveal serious accidents, rolled-back mileage, taxi or rental history, and the country the car was imported from.
Compare the VIN in the registration document with the plate on the chassis. If the seller dodges questions about the VIN or the paperwork, that alone is reason to walk away β the used-car market is large and there is always another listing.
The test drive: what to feel and listen for
Drive for at least 15β20 minutes, both in town and on the open road. A cold start reveals the most: smoke, rough idle, odd noises. Test the gearbox through all gears, the brakes (the car must not pull to one side), the air conditioning and every button.
In a parking lot, turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways and listen for knocking. Look under the car for leaks. Unevenly worn tires point to suspension or alignment problems β which can also be the aftermath of a crash.
A mechanic's inspection is insurance, not a cost
Before buying, take the car to an independent mechanic or a computer diagnostic. An inspection costs roughly β¬30β50 and uncovers hidden engine faults, accident traces (repainting, replaced panels, non-factory welds) and the real state of the suspension and brakes.
A serious seller has nothing against an independent inspection. If the seller refuses diagnostics or insists on 'his mechanic only', treat it as a red flag.
Negotiating the price
Negotiate only after the viewing, with concrete arguments: tires near the end of their life, a major service due, minor damage. Blanket lowballing ('half price?') doesn't work β an itemized list with estimated repair costs does.
The realistic discount range is usually 3β10% off the asking price. If a car is priced far below the market, don't negotiate β ask yourself why it's cheap. A too-low price is the most common bait in scams.
The contract and ownership transfer
The sales contract must include: both parties' details, vehicle data (make, model, VIN, plate number, year, mileage), the price, the date and signatures. Have it certified by a notary or at the municipality β without certification the ownership transfer is not possible.
In Montenegro the transfer is done at the police (MUP): a 5% tax on the assessed value is paid, plus a fee for the new registration document, and the vehicle needs a valid technical inspection and insurance. Before signing, verify the car is not under a lien or leasing and that fines and dues are settled β otherwise those obligations can land on you.
Frequently asked questions
How can I check a car's VIN for free?
A basic check (model, year, country of origin, some recalls) is available through free databases such as the NHTSA VIN decoder and manufacturer websites. A detailed report on accidents, mileage and ownership history comes from paid services like carVertical or autoDNA (roughly β¬15β30 per report) β a small amount compared to the price of the car.
How much does a pre-purchase inspection cost?
A computer diagnostic plus a visual inspection at an independent mechanic in Montenegro and the region costs roughly β¬30β50. A deeper inspection with paint-thickness measurement and a lift check can cost up to β¬100, but it reveals repainted and crash-repaired parts invisible to the naked eye.
How do I verify the car is not under leasing or a lien?
Ask the seller for proof the vehicle is fully paid off, check the registration document (with leasing, the owner listed is the leasing company, not the seller) and request a look at the pledge register. If a leasing company or bank appears in the papers, buying without their written consent is a risk you should not take.
How much can I negotiate off a used car's price?
The realistic negotiation range is usually 3β10% off the listed price, depending on how long the ad has been up and what defects you find. The strongest arguments are concrete: expired registration, worn tires, a major service due, minor body damage.
What must a car sales contract contain?
Full names, addresses and ID numbers of both buyer and seller; the vehicle's make, model, VIN, plate number, year and mileage; the price and payment method; a statement that the vehicle is free of encumbrances; the date, place and signatures. The contract is certified by a notary or municipality so the ownership transfer can proceed.
Is it better to buy an imported or a locally sold car?
Neither is inherently better β what matters is a documented history. For imports, ask for foreign service invoices and a history report from the country of origin; for local cars, the advantage is that history is easier to verify at authorized dealers. In both cases a VIN check and an independent inspection are mandatory.